Chicago Overhang

Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.

The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.

It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."

It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.

Chicago Overhang

is immediately east of the

The Kitchen

, just inside the gate. It is a north-facing, very irregular outcrop with two prominent bulges.

There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the

Chicago Overhang

or

Chicago's West Side

. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between

The Kitchen

and

Chicago's West Side

and then back north on the top of the

Chicago

formation.

Two bolt anchor at the top of the outcrop; a long sling or some static rope is needed to get the anchor point over the edge.