A Queen's Jewels and Riches

P1. Start up some very poor loose rock for 10-15 feet without great gear until you can finally get a good hand-size cam in the solid rock, then continue up hands and wide hands leaning slightly left on good rock to a junkier section of loose sugar rock. Build a belay somewhere in here (avoiding nasty rope drag); or enter into a bit of a chimney/wide section, and continue until you can merge with

Squeeze Box's

chimney. Continue up to the shoulder, and build a gear belay.

P2. This is

Squeeze Box's

summit pitch. Climb terrible, sugary rock up and left, and perform a slabby high step move to the top. I hope none of the hand holds blow up. This is short.

This is another route on Defecating Monk that is a bit of a step up in my opinion compared to the standard route,

Squeeze Box

. It avoids the nasty, poop chimney and gives a nice section of splitter hands/wide hands instead. It is located on the west aspect of the tower, just walk 10 seconds around the corner from

Squeeze Box's

start.

A single set of cams to #4 with doubles in hand sizes. A #5 was nice but optional. A third #3 cam wouldn't go unused and is nice for the belay at the shoulder.