Byron's Ladder

August 24, 2009 – Left Hand Rock - I rope soloed a new, unknown 5.2 sport route right of

Dark Days

(the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and ?Gilded Lily?). This is an all sport route with 9 bolts. It starts right and below a stack of flakes, straight up and gains a rib. It follows the right side of edge of water streak. It goes to brown painted hangers and rap rings. It is a good option for starting newbies and training lead climbers. The bolt placements will require lead climbers to think about the use of different lengths of draws and slings to reduce rope drag. Using several of the upper bolts as directionals provides new top rope climbing below and left of the anchor. A 60 meter rope works fine. This climb and anchor, coupled with

T-Rect

and

Triceratops

, both 5.7+, now opens up the entire right shoulder of Left Hand Rock to a wide range of top roping with 3 easily accessed anchors. This development could potentially reduce the waiting for more experienced climbers to get on the more moderate popular climbs like

Index Toe

and

Middle Toe

. This will also reduce any perceived pressure on the new climbers to get out of the way of those waiting.

This is to the right of

Dark Days

(the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and ?Gilded Lily?).

9 bolts - see description. Some long slings (24") to reduce rope drag.

Per

waldo

: this may be missing anchor bolts.