The Big Payback

Not the Big Paycheck as it is in Handren's book. A real adventure climb. Expect some sand and looseness on every pitch. Pitch 3 had been attempted several times by Danny Meyers before the FA.P1: 150' 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Sergeant Slaughter. The anchor is fixed nuts.P2: 50' 4th Traverse right to the second (older) set of anchors.P3: 150' 5.7 A2+ Climb the thin crack past a bolt and a rivet to a hanging stance. Boldness and sparing use of the hammer will keep this aesthetic-looking pitch from becoming a beat-out mess.P4: 100' A3 Follow the crack up into a chimney past a loose block that looks like it could (and should) be trundled. A few bat hook moves help here. Bailing after this pitch could be annoying.P5: 150' 5.9 A2 Start with some chimneying, then follow the roof way right, cleverly avoiding a loose block. P6: 150' 5.8 A2 Follow the crack/corner, passing a fixed hex around 100'. Belay at a slopey ledge on left with one bolt, back it up with nuts, beaks, and small cams. P7: 100' 5.8 C2 Frequent free climbing keeps the hammer in the bag and the rope moving faster on this one. There is one protection bolt and some moss. Finish on the spacious bivy ledge.P8: 130' 5.9 A2 Free climb up and left until you can climb over the arching roof. There is a new-ish two bolt anchor on the right.P9: 170' 5.9 C2 Pass an old anchor and another bolt before following the leaning crack to the right. A good pitch to wear free climbing shoes for.P10: 180' 5.9 C2 Pull the roof and follow the corner/crack to a stance with one bolt in a wide chimney. Mostly free climbing.P11: 60' 5.7  Finish up the chimney then cross a ledge to belay at the base of another chimney.P12: 100' 5.8 Follow the clean-looking chimney to the top.

On the left side of the wall. The giant arch of pitches 4 and 5 is a good landmark.

1-2 ea nuts A few tricams 4 ea cams from tiny to 0.5 BD 3 ea cams 0.75 - 1 2 ea cams 2 - 6 4-5 ea beaks 1 ea Lost Arrows 1 - 4 2 rivet hangers Hooks Small ballnuts could be useful 40-50' lower out line