Alcatraz

This is an open project at Lower Shaman. It requires some dry cold conditions in order for the route to be dry and grippy. There is a seasonal wet streak that you have to cross near the beginning. The route name comes from someone asking if the bolts were from Alcatraz because they look rusted. I can assure you they are not rusted, but painted brown to match the rock.Either begin on the Flake or scramble around to get to the anchors on the Flake. The climb starts from the anchors and moves hard right and slightly down clipping fixed draws. Continue traversing right making very strenuous undercling moves past four fixed draws. Then move up to a bolt without a fixed draw (easy to clean on lower or rappel). Then keep moving up to a wide flake feature, get a #4 camalot here. Make the final slab moves to the anchors above.The fixed draws were added to prevent an epic trying to retrieve your draws if you cannot finish the climb or your second cannot free the moves.

Starts on the left side of Upper Shaman from the anchors above the Flake.

A quickdraw for one bolt without a fixed draw and a mandatory #4 camalot for the final flake section. 60m rope will get you down.