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Peak Mountain 3

Original Sin

FA Jake and Kim Mergenthaller 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climbing off the ground is a little spicy. If you have a stick clip you won't even notice, but if you are doing "lead all the way", you will certainly ponder the moves a bit more. Not hard for the grade, but it does require a commitment to working with what you have available. This wall had some loose rock on the start in the past, but is pretty clean now. The climb starts under the bird's beak, climbing around the tip of the beak.

Pitch 1 (5.10c) Climb up and right through the tip of the bird's beak. (60ft)

Pitch 2 (5.10d) Angle up and right gaining a steep corner that deposits you on a tricky slab that keeps you at to a ledge with chains. (95 ft)

Descent: Two single or one double rope rappel.

Location

Twenty feet left of the chimney, directly under the bird beak.

Protection

Bolts.


Routes in Birdhead Buttress