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Peak Mountain 3

Left of Cleft

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Description

Climb along a small right-leaning fragile flake and place a cam. Move up, then traverse right to a short right-leaning crack. Climb the crack to its end, near the

Cleft

. Move left and up, into the longer right-leaning crack (on which I am visible in the photo). This crack is thin at first, then steepens awkwardly right (crux, wide hands) before it nears the

Cleft

. I continued up into the

Cleft

, to the same belay position that I had used in the cleft (by the fixed pin and old sling). I led Ross Swanson up this on Sept. 2, 2010.

Location

This is on the slab, just left of the

Cleft

. We rapped from a sling that we left, left of the

Cleft

.

Protection

SR. I wished I had doubles of #1-3 Camalots and double ropes.