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Peak Mountain 3

iPod

FA Nick Nordblom, et al
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

iPod follows a left-leaning crack system to the top of the Little Joe formation. It starts with a hand to fingers crack in clean varnished rock that pulls into a big flaring pod. From here, protect with wide cams, and climb in or out of the leaning varnished flare (you can climb the slopey arete just left of the crack) to the top. The crux is at the bottom, which is probably 9+ or 10a, but who knows.

Location

iPod climbs from the northwest corner of the Little Joe formation. Find the rap anchor above the bolted route to get down.

Protection

A white alien, double .75 to #3, and some offwidth cams. With the spicy-feeling climbing up past the leaning flare, i was happy with four (yes! four) big cams (new school #4 and #5 camalot, and two #6s) but you could use more or less depending on your Pansy-Quotient. You could also stuff smaller cams in the back of the crack instead of huge ones, but i thought the bigger stuff made it more fun. (I have a pretty high PQ, for the record)


Routes in Little Joe