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Peak Mountain 3

Pig Iron

FA JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, James Q Martin 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both a little bouldery and down home thin hands jamming. Bomber rock and gear from start to finish.

Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one bolt belay- bring medium wires to supplement. From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6 foot long flake which came off in my hands while scoping the line.

After the roof, jam your way through the next 40' of a splitter small hands crack. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.

Johnny Cash, Rock Island Line

Location

100' east of Hobel Memorial. Just west (climbers right) of scrappy cedar on rim.

Protection

Double set from #2 TCU- #1 Camalot. Extra #.75 Camalot, one each #0 and #1 TCU, one #2 Camalot, medium wires. Plenty of draws.