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Peak Mountain 3

Shibumi

FA Bret Ruckman, Bill Gibson, and Marco Cornacchione, '88-'89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head.

P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and pin, next to a large tree.

P2 - Climb the low angle left facing corner directly overhead (.10a) and then clip a bolt out right. Start moving up and right aiming for another bolt and eventually at the end of the spicy 35' traverse a fixed pin at the base of the incredible head wall seam. Put on your tricky pro A-game cap and get ready to do some intricate crack/face combination climbing. No one move feels desperate but slowly and surely the burn builds as eventually you must confront the age old question, "to send must there be less pro?" Locate the obvious summit anchor - bolt and pin.

Location

Climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head. Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab about 40' up with two bolts in the first 30'. From the top of P1 you can do a 90' rap to the ground. From the top of P2, summit Diamond Head, do a 95' rap to the top of P1.

Protection

SR with double set of RPs and triple micro cams.