Love in the Time of COVID

Begin this route with some fun face climbing up through the shallow portion of the offwidth before getting a knee or hip into the crack. Make your way through a bulge and then into a cozy, yet cruxy flaring pod that abruptly turns right forming a small roof to overcome. Once out of the pod, follow the crack up to an awesome squeeze chimney that takes you over the top of the column. This one seems body-size dependent based on mine and my partner’s experience. Some may find the pod to be the crux, while others may struggle more with the squeeze chimney.

There is some loose rock on this route, but nothing out of the ordinary for Vantage. Using the face features surrounding the crack will feel like 5.8-5.9, but staying in the crack will get you a 5.10a.

Right now, the best way to anchor is to redirect the rope through a BD #3 in the corner crack above and to the back of the column and then run through the chains at the top of The Jagged Edge 5.7.

Ultimately, chains need to be installed on the right wall directly over the route for a less complicated rope situation.

The obvious wide crack on the right side of the column on which The Jagged Edge 5.7 is found.

Gear from 3-12”. Use BD #3-8 cams or equivalent.