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Peak Mountain 3

Teale Tower Route

FA: Brian Teale, 1974. FFA: Gallagher and Williams, 1979
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Description

This route is probably an Elevenmile three star, but I'm taking a broader view. This "Yosemite like" (not really) climb would be a one star in Yosemite.

The obvious corner in middle of the south face of Teale Tower, a few feet to the right of a rounded fist/offwidth crack.

Starts with thin stemming and laybacking (crux) that widens to hands. Pass an offwidth section (#4 Camalot) with classy stemming and laybacking. Belay at a big ledge. Pitch 2 continues up the corner (5.9 crux about 15' up) to the intimidating roof; easier than it looks.

Anti-beta caveats: D'Antonio's guide shows two bolts at the the first belay. There are no bolts here, just a sling wedged in a constriction. Stuart Green's Colorado guide recommends a rack of double 1-4 Friends; this is just plain wrong.

Protection

Small to medium nuts. Cams from blue Alien to #4 Camalot. Doubles from 0.5 Friend to 1.5 Friend probably handy.


Routes in Teale Tower


  1. 1
    Teale Tower Route
    5.11a
    Trad