- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is probably an Elevenmile three star, but I'm taking a broader view. This "Yosemite like" (not really) climb would be a one star in Yosemite.
The obvious corner in middle of the south face of Teale Tower, a few feet to the right of a rounded fist/offwidth crack.
Starts with thin stemming and laybacking (crux) that widens to hands. Pass an offwidth section (#4 Camalot) with classy stemming and laybacking. Belay at a big ledge. Pitch 2 continues up the corner (5.9 crux about 15' up) to the intimidating roof; easier than it looks.
Anti-beta caveats: D'Antonio's guide shows two bolts at the the first belay. There are no bolts here, just a sling wedged in a constriction. Stuart Green's Colorado guide recommends a rack of double 1-4 Friends; this is just plain wrong.
Protection
Small to medium nuts. Cams from blue Alien to #4 Camalot. Doubles from 0.5 Friend to 1.5 Friend probably handy.
Routes in Teale Tower
- 1Teale Tower Route5.11aTrad