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Peak Mountain 3

Sky Crack

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Description

Sky Crack is an amazing finger- and hand-crack that defines, and ascends, the right margin of the NW Slabs. The climb is easily identified as a clean crack splitting the low-angle slab above the base cairn, and begins in a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral below and the to the left of the crack.

Begin by liebacking around the right side of a white flake leaning against the wall below the base of the dihedral and continue to lieback up the dihedral above. It's probably worth slinging your pro on the end of this section, as the dihedral heads right while the majority of the climb angles slightly left.

At the end of the dihedral, pull through a short roof on bomber fingerlocks to gain a shallow groove that ends at a second overhang. Overcome this second crux and swim up the classic hand and finger crack above until the crack dies out on Cow Pie Ledge.

If you're climbing on a 70m rope, this climb should unquestionably be done in one pitch, since any belay would break up an otherwise continuous line. However, a belay could be had at any point on the pitch, since the crack takes pro for its entire length.

Location

Sky Crack climbs the right side of the NW Slab of Greyrock, and is plainly obvious as one reaches the cairn at the base of the face.

Protection

Nuts through #3 BD; plenty of opportunities for passive pro, bring your hexes!

Novice leaders will likely feel more comfortable with doubles since the route is a full rope length.