- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is NOT a particularly pleasant climb due to dubious rock quality, dirty cracks and a lame second pitch, but it merits a single star for the adventure factor.
Pitch 1 (5.7; 65'): Climb toward two obvious cracks on the upper left side of the east face and ascend the dirty right crack, moving left just before the ledge and then up to the ledge. After reaching the ledge, tell your partner to move left to avoid being hit by one of the many loose rocks on the ledge as you traverse right 10' to a Knobcone Pine. Belay from the pine.
Pitch 2 (5.3; 115'): Scramble up the left side of a boulder (class 4), up a 15' chimney (5.3), and up an easy slab (class 3) to the summit. Belay from a 2-3" crack at the summit.
Descend by scrambling class 4 climber's left down the south end of the crag, then bushwhack toward the right, down the base of the west face, and then westward across the burned-out chaparral toward the road.
Location
The route begins from the road on the left side of the east face (see photo for the Looney Tunes area).
Protection
One set of cams and a sling. I used five cams and a sling on a flake, some of which may not have held a fall, to protect pitch 1, and one cam to protect pitch 2.