Bivi's

This is the route that goes up the large quarried face that can be seen from the parking area. Climb past the hangerless first bolt, then on a fun arete through two more bolts. You will reach a horizontal crack that takes some good gear and then pull up onto a thin face for some committing and bold moves. Run it out or find some gear over easier ground to the anchors. This could be a great climb if it was cleaned up, rebolted, and shown a little love. Not sure if the FA party just did a terrible job, or if the route was partially chopped, or maybe a huge piece of the wall fell off containing the rest of the route. If you plan to try this route, be careful.

From the main parking area, hike up towards the Sidewinder Buttress. When you reach the edge of the rock, head right across the steep and barren scree gully (don't die). Find the small ledge below the arete and head straight up.

Small to medium gear, wire for the hangerless bolt, rather large cojones.