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Peak Mountain 3

Death Warmed Over

FA Eric Scully
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Description

Death Warmed Over is one of the best bouldery routes on Mount Lemmon. Follow thin and rounded edges through tensiony and powerful moves. A hard finish guards the chains. The moves are unusual and very fun. A quickdraw (or even a single biner) on the last bolt blocks a crucial hold, so I would recommend leaving this bolt unclipped.

Though short, the route is sustained, and there aren't any "easy" moves to speak of. The rock, while sharp, isn't as bad as it might seem from the ground, though the skin-exfoliating nature of the holds may keep you from putting in attempts too many times per day. It is best to wait until the weather cools down for optimal temperatures, but the route does get morning shade for attempts in less-optimal times of the year.

Location

Between Zombie Flanders and The Morgue (the project listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II) on the west face of the Goosehead.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor, though the last bolt is an inch or two above a critical hold for the finish and is best skipped on redpoint. Having taken the fall, it is safe, if a little long should your belayer be pulled off the ground.