- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start left of the arete and get your ass handed to you by a steep section armed with a series of pumpy pockets and edges with daddy issues.
Use your Jedi skill to get established on a slab with a serious attitude problem. This route desires to kill your onsight and red point attempts. It's not impossible, just hard as hell...especially if you are a Star Wars fans that hated the prequel trilogy.
And to be honest here, folks...some of us in the local scene hate the first five bolts of this route as much as most members of Generation X hate Jar Jar Binks. We think the start of this route is kinda shitty since the rock is always a bit wet, slippery and gross. There is, however, a way to get around this.
An alternative start to this route involves climbing the first six bolts of Death Star and heading right into the seventh bolt of Sith. This gives you a better start and all the good upper holds of Sith in a variation known as "No Shith" or "Death Sith". Try this if you are trying to climb this route during summer rainy seasons that are causing the worst kind of send killing humidity.
Location
Located the arete in the middle of the wall and to the left of Shady Lady. Head up the left line.
Protection
take 12 draws.
Routes in Dark Side Wall
- 16Sith5.12bSport