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Peak Mountain 3

Multiplication

FA Herb Laeger, Eric Fazio Rhicard, Bob Kamps, Hunt Prothro '87
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Vague memories of this climb and Herb Laeger standing on one foot to drill a bolt shaking out that leg then finishing on the same leg after 25 minutes.Also that Bob Kamps had to be cajoled into putting any bolts in on the final pitch. Can't remember who lead what just that it was a long enjoyable day of adventure with two Legends.

1)climb face past 3 bolts to a 4th (the belay) which is next to a flake that takes friends for the belay.This is about where the glacier polish begins. 2) Climb polish to unpolished rock to the same ledge that the 2nd pitch of the Vision ends. Four bolts protect this. Getting to the fourth bolt is run out but reasonable. 3)From the ledge go straight up glacier polished rock, a bit left of a small corner and crack to a bolt. This leads you to another crack which takes you up the steep polished buttress past 2 more bolts. It then reaches a small left facing which goes until you run out of rope and belay at the bottom of a ramp. 4)Climb ramp up to and through the big right facing corner. The one bolt on the pitch is here. Easy run out face climbing takes you to the top. Please feel free to upgrade the old 1/4 inch bolts if they have not been done already.

Location

Starts somewhere to the right of The Vision. See original topo I scanned.

Protection

small cams and larger cams to one #4 for 3rd belay small wired nuts and alpine draws.