We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Chimney Sweep

FA Tyler Hill, 9/2/20
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb left of the anchor and straight up staying left of the crack system for Ray Auld Memorial Route and right of Freedom Fighter. A lower crux around bolt 4 is intended to be climbed straight through the steepest section of rock but can be bypassed to the right. Beware a swing if opting for the right variation. Climb up to the striking chimney/spire feature.

There are several options to climb this feature, namely either the left side, straight up the middle via bear-hugging/stemming/laybacking (the FA beta), or jamming the flaky rock on the right inside the actual "chimney". The left side may be easier than 10+ but a fall would result in a scary swing around the arete.

In any case, after mantling the feature do a tricky move rightwards to a jug and the top of the route (tree off if you can help it).

Location

Begin on the nice ledge where Freedom Fighter and Ray Auld meet.

Protection

17 bolts with rap anchors at the top. 60m rope will make it down but tie knots in the end of your rope.

You can back clean at least two bolts.

TRing this is a pain due to rope rub/friction. Best to lead or second it.