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Description
Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are three sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c, and the third after an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.
P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).
P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! After passing an intermediate anchor the difficulty of the climbing eases, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).
Protection
4 bolts for the first pitch, 7 bolts for the second pitch. 2-bolt Clip-n-Lowers on both anchors
Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
- 24Nine Gallon Buckets5.10cSport