- Edit (TBD)
Description
Atlantis Tower is one of the last remaining gargantuan towers of the greater Debeque Canyon area. Somehow it has either gone unnoticed or unclimbed due to its location, huddled next to the cliff wall above Plateau Creek. Thousands will drive by every year going up to the mesa, but none have made the leap. The route is surprisingly good, and although I didn't free it on lead, it will go free probably around 5.11 ish well- protected.
Edit: I went back and was able to free the whole route on toprope. Most of the climbing is 5.9-5.10 with the crux being 5.11+ at the start of Pitch 2. Still needs a true FFA on lead.
P1 - start behind the flake, climb up a semi-rotten crack 5.10 lieback/ 5.9 C1, and clip three bolts up high where you can then tunnel through the formation under precarious blocks. From here, hike up the shoulder to a two bolt belay.
P2 - the fun begins. Clip two bolts around a corner (5.11+ or C0), and jump into the #5 crack which thins to #4. Two bolts pass the flake where it is dangerously thin. Face climb or aid climb clipping many bolts up the ridge, where you can grab the knife edge, and traverse on nice feet over to a few more bolts to the summit (exposed af!), making one final mantel move. There are two bolts on top for a belay.
Location
It climbs the obvious crack system on eastern shady side of formation to gain the shoulder. To find the tower, drive up for about 10 minutes from I-70. You'll see a massive power line stretching the canyon - right under this lies Atlantis.
Rap the chimney side with 2 60m ropes. Do not leave anything on the ledge, as you can't get back.
Protection
Singles from #0.1-4, 2 #5-#6. A 9" is useful for aiding on P1 but difficult to place, now with the bolts, it is probably not needed. Bring many draws for the 2nd pitch. A 1/2" wrench for bolts could be handy as many may have loosened over time. Bring 20' of webbing.
Routes in Exit 49
- 1Atlantis Tower5.9Trad · Aid