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Peak Mountain 3

Dozer

FA M. & C. Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great climbing, but some poor rock and some dirt at the top.

Start in the low angle rock at the base of hte R-facing corner. Scramble up 20-30' of boulders up to the vertical section of rock in the dihedral proper. On the left wall there are finger to tight-hands cracks and placements that are not visible until you arrive. Plunk in a few pieces and get started upward. As you go up the crack widens. The route climbs far better than it looks, but no less, it does have a few sections of low quality rock and/or dirt in non-crux areas.

Continue up and over the top, optionally placing a few hand-sized cams in or around the top chckstone for a directional before topping out.

From above that, either try to find a way off of the back and a belay (not straight forward) or sack up and follow the rising sloping traverse up and left out to the Arete to climber's left of the route, where you can find a 2-bolt anchor to lower or TR from.

A lead far from this insecure traverse would be a very very bad idea. I suspect it is 5.8+, but is insecure.

Location

On the Far right side of the 'Breaks Right' there is a massive right-facing corner with an inset at the back. The left side of this inset holds a right-facing corner that goes from thin cracks on the right to OW and even Squeeze up top, culminating in a crux coming out from under the Massive Boulder/chockstone up top.

Protection

Small gear at the bottom on the left, big gear here and there. A top anchor could be problematic, so take the kitchen sink and figure it out. OW gear is not required, but is not a bad idea. If you don't take it, you can use occasional placements out left to keep it sane.