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Description
The swooping, rightward traverse off the midway ledge. More delicate than powerful, but it takes a little of both.
Walk right from the ledge's bolted anchor, step up to clip the first bolt, and finger traverse right with increasing difficulty. Just as it starts getting desperate, a reach gains the juggy lip.
The business of this climb is well protected by four bolts, and should be a friendly lead for someone at their limit. Trad gear is needed only as a directional for the follower after pulling the lip, where a .75 and/or 1 C4 (green/red Totems would be even better) can be placed in a horizontal before shuffling left to the bolted anchor. Don't forgo the gear, your follower and rope will hate you.
From the bolted anchor, it's a 35m free-hanging rap to the ground. You can also traverse a little further left, and rap back to the midway ledge from the Bartizan anchor.
Location
The rightmost route on the upper tier, midway ledge. Look for the four bolts.
Protection
Four bolts + green or red C4 or equivalent
Routes in Goblin's Fortress
- 4The Ballista5.11aTrad