Dawn Juan Direct

Dawn Juan, but after the low crux, go up to a jug rail, then straight up over the polished face on some razor crimps to another jug rail. Then continue up some 5-easy terrain a short way to the anchors.

The crux is the face after the first jug rail, and is probably way harder if you're short.  To me it felt like it was in the v4-v6 ballpark, but this was after mostly bouldering and hangboarding in quarantine, so who knows. I've heard reference of this being in a guidebook at 5.11+, which seems plausible (after a few burns on it I was able to find a few foot-chips that made the crux much easier than my first go).

As with Dawn Juan, there is a short 5.10d/5.11- ish crux in the lower section.

This route is climber's right of The Crack. If you want to set up a TR anchor it's one fencepost over from where the chains have been set up for The Crack.

Top rope only. You could maybe protect it with something at the first/second jug rail, but it'd probably rip out some rock if you did, which is a no-no for being able to continue climbing here.