- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: climb up a broken corner and crack system for 4 bolts to a stance underneath a roof. Get psyched, and crank a couple bolts of cruxy climbing involving powerful moves, a bit of balancey sidepulling, and a mantel. Finish with 20 feet or so of more moderate climbing to a ledge with a chain anchor (100ish feet, 9 or 10 bolts, 13a, give or take a few letter grades).
P2: I did not climb this pitch, but apparently it is another 25m of 12a/b climbing involving techy crimps and a dihedral to finish. There is a bolted chain anchor up top.
The two pitches can be linked for a full value romp to the top of the formation, which apparently takes 15 bolts in total.
Location
This route ascends the face of the very obvious pillar on the right side of the southwest face. I think it's the first bolted route you get to on the main face of the crag if you take the left fork.
Protection
There are 9 or 10 bolts for the first pitch and a chain anchor. Supposedly there are 15 bolts to link both pitches.
Use a 70m rope to lower from P1. If linking, a 70m should let you lower to the P1 anchor from the top of P2, but knot your ends.
Routes in Grazing Allotment Crag
- 7Ivory Tower5.13aSport