Swedish Girls

A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.

Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge. Alternatively you can do the new start from below and add a few bolts of more moderate climbing up to the ledge before jumping directly into the crux 

From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to finish left of the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.

This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.

The far left route on the ledge on the left side of The Prudential. Traverse left from the belay bolt to start.Note - You can also start from below, adding a few more bolts of nice climbing. See first comment below.

8 bolts to anchor, 12 if you do the lower start