- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route was top-roped from the 2-bolt anchor on the east ridge, shared with the top of the 3rd pitch of the South Face. It starts at the same place as the South Face route. It follows a more or less direct line straight up to the anchor. We TR'd it in June 2012, but I suspect it's been done before as it's pretty easy to set up from the fixed anchor.
The crux is about midway up traversing right under the small, flaky roof shown in the photo. It's fairly steep and sustained 5.10 and 11- climbing, with lots of fun moves in a nice position. It has nice crisp holds with only a little lichen here and there.
Judging from the photo recently posted for
Belladona
, this top rope travels some of the same terrain on that route, perhaps 30 or 40 feet in the lower half? There's not much natural pro in there, so I'm guessing the
Belladona
FA was a bold one!
Location
Climb either the
East Ridge
, the
South Face
, or
South Crack
to the two-bolt anchor on top. The start from the ground is where the
South Face
starts, but go straight up and over the lower roof instead of trending left under the roof.
Protection
Top rope, bring two 60-meter ropes.
Routes in The Maiden
- 8The Southern Seas5.11bTr