We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Edge of Time

FA John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Edge of Time

is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the

Big in Japan

anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of

Thin Slice in Time

. However, IMO this is a more logical and better way to get to the cracks than doing

Thin Slice

(no offense to

Thin Slice's

FA party).

Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of

Big in Japan

. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of

Big in Japan's

anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.

Location

Right of

Big in Japan

.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of

Encore

. Turning the corner onto the

Big in Japan

face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I'll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.