- Edit (TBD)
Description
Edge of Time
is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the
Big in Japan
anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of
Thin Slice in Time
. However, IMO this is a more logical and better way to get to the cracks than doing
Thin Slice
(no offense to
Thin Slice's
FA party).
Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of
Big in Japan
. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of
Big in Japan's
anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.
Location
Right of
Big in Japan
.
Protection
Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of
Encore
. Turning the corner onto the
Big in Japan
face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I'll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.
Routes in Storm Mountain Island
- 27Edge of Time5.10bTrad