- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1. Below the slot under the summit, head up mixed terrain to cracks leading to very nice 15 foot dihedral (5.8). Continue up multiple cracks and a tree to a broken ramp on the right side below the slot, ~150 feet.
P2. In the slot, climb the right side of a thin crack, the fixed nut is mine :-(
Burst up to a good horizontal below roof, #3 blue and #0.75 green. The rock is a tad crumbly for a short section of Hor but good everywhere else.
You're on the clock here with the pump factor kicking in. Layback or stem the wide crack on the right. I didn't see the stem and did a short, runout layback until you can get a stance in the bottom of the wide crack, place your gold #2 Camalot. Step & stem left to the route namesake an unusual eroded chockstone and up placing your purple Camalot.
Descent: we did not see a quick way to get to the rap station, so we rapped the route, 1st webbing jammed in a slot, 2nd off the tree about halfway up. Doing the crux as a layback I thought was harder than 10c, the pump factor was great.
Location
Below the summit on west face of Jam Crack Spire is a slot. On the north side below the slot is an overhanging, inclined roof with a wide crack on its right side. Leading to the roof is small crack also on the right side.
Protection
SR to #4 + small gear for crack under roof. We took a #5 camolot but could get buy w/o. A yellow & purple camolot above crux.