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Peak Mountain 3

Holeistic

FA Alec Sharp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Below the slot under the summit, head up mixed terrain to cracks leading to very nice 15 foot dihedral (5.8). Continue up multiple cracks and a tree to a broken ramp on the right side below the slot, ~150 feet.

P2. In the slot, climb the right side of a thin crack, the fixed nut is mine :-(

Burst up to a good horizontal below roof, #3 blue and #0.75 green. The rock is a tad crumbly for a short section of Hor but good everywhere else.

You're on the clock here with the pump factor kicking in. Layback or stem the wide crack on the right. I didn't see the stem and did a short, runout layback until you can get a stance in the bottom of the wide crack, place your gold #2 Camalot. Step & stem left to the route namesake an unusual eroded chockstone and up placing your purple Camalot.

Descent: we did not see a quick way to get to the rap station, so we rapped the route, 1st webbing jammed in a slot, 2nd off the tree about halfway up. Doing the crux as a layback I thought was harder than 10c, the pump factor was great.

Location

Below the summit on west face of Jam Crack Spire is a slot. On the north side below the slot is an overhanging, inclined roof with a wide crack on its right side. Leading to the roof is small crack also on the right side.

Protection

SR to #4 + small gear for crack under roof. We took a #5 camolot but could get buy w/o. A yellow & purple camolot above crux.