- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is really good. Every hold is either a jug, a solid hand jam, or a solid fist jam, with the exception of the crux holds which are smaller but still very positive. The first half is slightly off-vertical and the second half is slightly overhanging. The grainy granite here is very sharp, taping up or crack gloves recommended. Start by getting up to a big jug, then use a hand jam to mantle up on top of it. Protection can be found throughout the route with a mixture of nuts and cams; it's pretty easy to sew it up, though you do have to make the crux moves with your last (bomber) gear at or below your feet. A fixed pin is halfway up. The upper half is really fun, overhanging with hand and fist jams, (or you can use many available jugs if your jamming technique is rusty). This route eats up nuts and cams, easy to sew up.
Location
The right crack system on Neon Rock
Protection
Nuts and cams up to Camelot #3 (would be nice to have a pair of #3s for the top, but not necessary). Cold shuts at the top (sharp edge below the anchors, need long slings to get powerpoint below the edge for toproping)