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Description
The stunning northwest prow of The Talon is home to this fantastic arête climb. Although short, stellar rock, sustained difficulty, and a dizzying position make this a contender for the best arête climb in the canyon. Complete with heel hooks, rock-overs, arête pinches and slaps, this burly beast will satisfy even the most discerning arête connoisseurs.
Stick clip the first bolt, then start from an exposed ledge just below the corner. Sequential slaps between sidepull edges work past the first bolt to an awkward shake on the north face. Clip up, then continue slapping along a quartz-studded rail, culminating in a big drive-by move just below the 4th bolt. A strenuous clip precedes the crux—a tenuous mantel and long throw to the lip of the teetering tower.
Location
Climb the overhanging arête on the northwest prow of The Talon.
Protection
4 bolts to 2BA. A stick clip is mandatory.
Routes in The Talon
- 2Where Eagles Dare5.13bSport