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Peak Mountain 3

Scene of the Crime

FA JB Tribout
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Description

Despite its quality, this route sits somewhat neglected near the top of the Aggro Gully, due to a difficult mono move. Locals claim the crux one-finger crank is harder than any move on White Wedding, and still others say that if you have fat fingers, you won't be able to fit your middle finger in the pocket at all.

However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick. The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux. Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket. More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.

Location

This is at the top of the big ramp on the Aggro Wall, left of Aggro Monkey.

Protection

Bolts. There is a belay bolt which should be considered mandatory, or use a stick clip.