Admiral's Club

This is not a bad line, and despite the R rating in the book, it is not really runout anywhere, much less where it is hard.

Start from the ground into a shallow corner. An optional 4" cam protects a high step right off of the ground. Once above the cam, a bomber stopper placement can be had. Get some underclings and pinches, and stand up to a good in-cut and clip the bolt. Surmount the roof, diagonaling left as you do. No runouts yet....

Move up and right into a series of flakes. I placed 2 small Aliens (both OK) on a sling and then proceeded up and left to a very solid #2 Camalot and then a stopper and then the pin. The pin can be backed up 16" higher with a green Alien if its age concerns you. No runouts yet.

Make a few thin moves to get up and clip the bolt, barely above your gear, and then clip and go directly up (5.9) or right and then up (easier) to the 2-bolt anchor. I don't believe that I ever went more than 10' without good gear, though some of the placements I found only after cleaning them out.

This route is good overall and is slightly easier than '

Auto Pilot

' but slightly headier.

This route is the right-most route under the roof at the low point, by '

Auto Pilot

.' It starts in a shallow corner and goes through the roof, then up a series of flakes to a pin and then bolt to the 2 bolt anchor atop the slab.

Gear to 3" with extra tips-to-second-knuckle sized gear if you like.