Cocaine Country Dancing

A beautiful, varnished left facing dihedral. "Not your typical Creek route" - a description which seems to be becoming more and more typical.

The corner begins easy enough, with good stances and occasional finger pods, but progressively ramps up in difficulty before the final crescendo of burning calves, tiny gear, and trusting the rubber.

Unless you have tiny, tiny fingers, expect to climb this route with your legs more than your hands. The inside of the crack is varnished, making the small gear feel very solid. You can place cams every inch of the way, but you'll likely commit to sequences above your gear at some point.

Directly above where the trail meets the wall. Starts off a small ledge.

A variety of cams in the purple and blue metolius range - having a mix of brands is helpful. I placed 4 blue metolius, 2 red c3's, 3 purple metolius and a gray metolius. You might want more if onsighting at your limit or nesting gear or aiding, but I felt like I sewed it up pretty good.

Black totems and yellow dragonfly's protect nicely where the crack pinches between purple and blue. BD .3's are too big. There are a couple finger pods down low where you can place a "big cam" in the .3-.5 range, but you'll also want your fingers there.