Finger Lickin' Good

Note: this climb is not to be confused with Finger Lickin' Good at Lumpy. I changed the name from Hubbel's guide to Finger Licking Good (with a "g") to avoid confusion.

On the seldom climbed north face of Turkey Rock -- visible from the parking lot -- is a pink crack bisecting the rock, perhaps 50 feet long. On a hot sunny summer day, this shaded route is an excellent destination.

Locate the highest tree on the North side. Above it is the crack -- you can't miss it. Belay at this tree, getting there via a gully to the left of the tree.

P1. Head 3 feet left of the tree into a low angle #3 crack which leads to a thin crack in a right-facing dihedral, 5.9 (alternate: go right of the tree into an obvious dihedral), 80 feet.

P2. Climb up the stunning crack, 10d, which takes good gear, to a ledge with slings.

You can rap with 2 ropes, or continue up

Wild Fire

, 5.9, a worthy and well-protected pitch that brings you to the summit. For

Wild Fire

, head right around the corner and arrive at an alcove. Ascend the broken crack until the ledge. The crux felt harder than 5.9. Then move left, thru a slot to the top, 100 feet.

Walk off left.

Standard rack to #3. Use slings after pitch 2; you can rap with 2 ropes. Otherwise, you can do a third pitch and walk off left.